The weather is lovely all over the
country at this time of the year. Gardeners who have planted clumps of the African
gladiolus will now be enjoying a magnificent display of tall orange
SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
These are rapidly coming to an end and when they are past their best it is
advisable to pull them up and put them on the compost heap.
HARDY SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
The seedlings of seeds sown in seedling trays in January and
February should be large enough to plant out into the garden. Space them
well apart and plant them in groups for best effect.
WINTER FLOWERING ANNUALS
Seed of Dimorphotheca sinuata (Namaqualand daisy) can still be
sown in all areas.
Warm frost-free areas: Seed of the following can still be sown in seed
Calendula officinalis (pot marigold)
Chrysanthemum carinatum (annual variety)
Consolida ambigua (larkspur) (sow in situ)
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Livingstone daisy or Bokbaaivygie) (protect
seedlings from birds by putting chicken wire over the beds)
Felicia bergerana (kingfisher daisy)
Godetia (satin flower)
Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet pea)
Linaria maroccana (toad flax - sow in situ)
Schizanthus (poor man's orchid)
Viola x wittrockiana (pansy)
Transplant seedlings out into the garden as soon as they are large enough,
about 3cm high. Never let any, especially stocks, get too tall or too old
in the pans.
Lifting perennials: The perennials listed below, if not lifted
last month can still be lifted an divided now, or in September when new
growth has started. Water the clumps the day before they are to be lifted.
After lifting do not let the roots become dry. Do the dividing in the
shade, and if you are expecting the task to take some time cover the
clumps with damp sacking to further protect the roots. For replanting
choose healthy young growths from the outer edge of the clump.
Ajuga reptans (bugle mint)
Armeria maritima (thrift)
Aster novi-belgii (Michaelmas daisy)
Chrysanrthemum maximum (Shasta daisy)
Echinacea purpurea (pink rudbeckia)
Gaillardia x grandiflora (blanket flower)
Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells)
Lobelia cardinalis (not in very cold areas)
Macleaya cordata (plume poppy)
Monarda didyma (bergamot)
Salvia farinacea (blue salvia)
Salvia patens (dark blue salvia)
Solidago (golden rod)
Carnations and dianthus: Take cuttings from non-flowering
basal shoots. The cutting should be about 4 - 5 cm long. Cut just below a
node or leaf joint. Remove a few lower leaves and insert the cutting in
sand, or two parts sand and and one part soil. Press the soil firmly
around each cutting, and water.
Primrose and polyanthus: Never let these lack water. Work
some compost and/or peat in around the point where the leaves and roots
meet, as it is from this point that the plants put out new roots.
Violets: Apply a light dressing of 2:3:2 at the rate of
60g per square metre. Mulch with sifted compost. Start watering once a
week in the summer rainfall areas.
SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS
As long as dahlias and cannas are flowering water them once a
week if the weather is dry. Water liliums and evergreen bulbous plants
such as agapanthus, red hot pokers and day lilies once every three weeks
when the weather is dry.
Continue lifting evergreen agapanthus, day lilies and summer flowering red
hot pokers if they are over crowded.
Winter rainfall areas: If March lilies have finished
flowering and if the clumps have become over crowded, lift, divide and
replant the bulbs, with neck of the bulb just below the surface of the
WINTER FLOWERING BULBS
Continue planting all these listed below. Tulips that have not
been kept in cold storage ('untreated tulips') can also be planted now.
Aristea thyriflora (tall aristea)
Bulbinella latifolia (cat's tail)
Dipidax triquetra (star of the marsh)
Iris (Dutch iris)
Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth)
Ipheion uniflorum (star of Bethlehem)
Ixia (wand flower)
Lycoris radiata (spider lily)
Muscari botryoides (grape hyacinth)
Ornithogalum thyrsoides (chincherinchee)
Ranunculus asiaticus (ranunculus)
Schizostylis coccinea (river lily)
Sparaxis (harlequin flower)
Tulip ('untreated' bulbs)
Stop feeding all pot plants except calceolarias, cinerarias,
cyclamen, primulas and winter flowering bulbs.
Water all pot plants, except those mentioned above, less frequently as the
weather gets cooler. Never let them dry out, however. This is important
especially for ferns and orchids. As the foliage of amaryllis, achimenes,
tuberous rooted begonias, caladiums and gloxinias starts dying back,
gradually reduce watering.
Grass no longer needs feeding now. Mow if necessary in the winter
rainfall and frost-free areas. Water the grass once a month in the summer
Take hardwood cuttings: These must be of fully matured wood,
which developed in the past spring or early summer. The cutting should be
about 20 cm long after the immature tips have been removed. Cut just below
a node or leaf joint. Remove the leaves from the bottom two thirds of each
Root the cuttings in the open ground. Make a v-shaped trench in the garden
about 15 cm deep and put a thin layer of sand at the bottom. Dip the end
of each cutting into a rooting hormone and then position the cutting in
the trench. Fill the trench with soil, firm it well and then water. In the
summer rainfall areas keep the soil damp, but not saturated, during winter
and early spring until the summer rains starts. The cutting should be
ready to plant in their permanent position in the garden in the winter or
early spring of next year.
Pull up all summer vegetables that have finished bearing. Put
healthy plants on the compost heap, but never do this with unhealthy
plants. Give all members of the cabbage family (broccoli, Brussels
sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and kale) a light dressing of LAN. Dissolve
a tablespoon in 5 litres of water apply to a metre of row. Water before
and after application.
Gauteng and OFS Highveld
Lowveld and warm frost free areas
OFS and Northern Cape
Kwa Zulu Natal Midlands
Eastern Cape and Karoo
Western Cape: Winter rainfall areas